Mungumby Lodge - Laura and loop self drive itinerary
Mungumby Lodge → Lakeland → Split Rock → Laura
Return via Old Laura, Horseshoe Lagoon, Battle Camp, Normanby River, Isabella Falls & Cooktown
Trip Overview
- Total distance: approx. 300 km (loop)
- Driving time: 5–6 hours driving
- Allow: Full day (9–10 hours including stops)
- Vehicle: AWD recommended, 4WD preferred for return leg
- Best season: Dry season (May–November)
- Fuel: Lakeland, Laura & Cooktown only
- Start: Early morning is essential
This inland loop showcases the cultural heart of Cape York, combining ancient Aboriginal rock art, gold-rush and pastoral history, vast savannah landscapes and major river systems before returning to the coast.
Laura Township
A small but historically and culturally significant outpost.
History
- Major supply centre for the 1870s Palmer River gold rush
- Former railway terminus from Cooktown
- Police camp and telegraph station were critical frontier infrastructure
Facilities
- Laura General Store
- Quinkan Hotel
- Quinkan Cultural Centre
Lunch Options
- Quinkan Hotel – classic outback pub meal
- General Store – takeaway or picnic
Return Journey – Laura to Cooktown via Battlecamp Route (4×4)
This return leg follows historic pastoral and stock routes, passing through some of Cape York’s richest wildlife country. Head north across the Laura River on the Peninsula Development Road for a short distance. Turn right towards “Oliveale Station” “Old Laura“
Old Laura Homestead (Rinyirru / Lakefield National Park)
History
- Established late 1800s as a cattle station
- Supplied beef to Cooktown and goldfields
- Now heritage-listed within Rinyirru National Park
What to See
- Homestead ruins
- Stockyards
- Interpretive signage
Wildlife & birds:
- Red-tailed Black Cockatoos
- Wallabies & kangaroos
- Goannas
- Magpie Geese (seasonal)
Horseshoe Lagoon
One of Cape York’s great inland wetlands.
Highlights
- Permanent waterhole attracting birds year-round
- Especially active in the dry season
Birdlife may include:
- Brolgas
- Magpie Geese
- Radjah Shelducks
- Egrets & herons
- Whistling Ducks
A superb place for quiet observation and photography.
⚠️ Crocodiles may be present — stay well back from waters edge.
Mungumby Lodge to Lakeland
Depart Mungumby Lodge
Leave just after sunrise while birdlife is most active along the Mulligan Highway lagoons between White Horse Creek & East Normanby River. Plan to have breakfast at the Lakeland Coffee House & Store behind the pub (Turn right at the phone booth after the school).
Birds commonly seen around the lodge and early drive along the Mulligan Highway:
- Wompoo & Superb Fruit-Doves
- Eclectus Parrot
- Macleay’s Honeyeater
- Spangled Drongo
- Emerald Dove
- Brolgas (in paddocks or lagoons)
- Jabaru (in lagoons or rivers)
- Grey Goshawk
- Jabaru (in rivers or lagoons)
- Red Shouldered Parrots
- King Fishers
- Jacana
- Magpie Geese
As you travel west, the landscape gradually transitions from wet tropical rainforest to open woodland and savannah.
Roadside wildlife:
- Agile wallabies
- Bush turkeys
- Black & Whistling Kites riding morning thermals
- Bustards
- Echidna
- Filled Neck Lizards
- Wild pigs
- Emu
Lakeland
~35-40 min drive from Mungumby Lodge
Lakeland is often called the Gateway to Cape York.
Pioneering history:
- Named after gold prospector William Lakeland
- Developed during late-1800s gold exploration
- Later became a major agricultural district producing bananas, pawpaw and melons
Stop here for:
- Fuel
- Coffee, snacks and fresh fruit from roadside stalls
- Toilets
Lakeland to Split Rock Art Galleries
Drive to Quinkan Split Rock (via Laura Road)
~40–45 minutes
This drive passes through classic termite-mound country and open eucalypt woodland.
Birdlife commonly seen:
- Apostlebirds
- Pale-headed Rosellas
- Rainbow Bee-eaters
- Wedge-tailed Eagles
- Black-breasted Buzzards (occasional)
- Bustards
- Red Tailed Black Cockatoo
Split Rock Aboriginal Rock Art Galleries (Quinkan Country)
Approx. 12 km south of Laura
One of the most accessible and significant Aboriginal rock art sites in Australia.
The Walk
- 30–45 minutes return
- Gentle climb to elevated galleries
- Handrails at steps, track poorly maintained however a clear track (branches hanging in)
- Allow at least 45-60 mins
What You’ll See
- Quinkan spirit figures
- Human and animal imagery
- Hand stencils and ceremonial motifs
- Art spanning thousands — possibly tens of thousands — of years
These galleries record law, ceremony, environmental change and spiritual belief, making this a living cultural landscape rather than a relic. UNESCO regards the Quinkan Rock Art as one of the ten most significant bodies of rock art in the world! Split Rock Galleries are a few of approximately 24+ sites but only public self access site with facilities.
Aboriginal Tour Options (Highly Recommended)
For deeper understanding:
Quinkan Cultural Centre – Laura
- +61 7 4060 3457
- Guided rock art tours (seasonal)
- Cultural interpretation of imagery
- Storytelling and symbolism
- Insights into bush tucker and land management
A guided visit adds cultural meaning that signage alone cannot convey.
⚠️ Please respect the site
- Do not touch rock surfaces
- Stay on marked paths
- Follow photography guidelines
Battle Camp Road
A historic and evocative inland route.
History
- Named after an 1873 conflict during gold-rush expansion
- Once a major supply and stock route to Cooktown
This is big-sky savannah country — remote, powerful and unchanged.
Wildlife:
- Emus
- Bustards
- Agile wallabies
- Large goannas crossing the road
Normanby River Crossing
One of Cape York’s largest river systems and flows all the way to Princess Charlotte Bay. Concrete causeway for easy crossing. If steady rain has passed recently this water can be knee deep. Normal dry season it is not very deep, but certainly not suitable for conventional or low clearance vehicles.
Scenic Stop
- Wide sandy channels
- Paperbarks and Pandanus along the banks
Birdlife:
- Azure & Forest Kingfishers
- Sea Eagles
- Egrets and herons
⚠️ Crocodiles are present — no swimming access.
Isabella Falls
A popular stop before reaching Cooktown. Very poluar with Hope Vale locals often on the weekends many families swimming.
Features
- Cascading freshwater falls
- Shaded picnic area
- Short walks to viewing points
- Croc free swimming
Birdlife:
- Figbirds
- Honeyeaters
- Rainbow Bee-eaters
Arrival in Cooktown
Arrive mid- to late afternoon.
Optional stops:
- Grassy Hill Lookout
- Endeavour River foreshore
- James Cook Museum
Refuel, enjoy a coffee or early dinner, then continue back to Mungumby Lodge.
Evening – Return to Mungumby Lodge
The short final drive returns you to rainforest calm.
Evening sounds & wildlife:
- Tree frogs
- Barking Owls
- Microbats
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A fitting end to a day that spans ancient culture, frontier history and vast landscapes.
Practical Tips
- Start early and allow plenty of time
- Carry water, hat and sunscreen
- Fuel at Lakeland, Laura or Cooktown
- Download offline maps (take a real map)
- Respect cultural and heritage sites
Why This Loop Is Special
This journey connects:
- World-class Aboriginal rock art
- Living Indigenous culture
- Gold-rush and pastoral history
- Major wetlands and river systems
- And a return to the coast at Cooktown
It is one of the most authentic and rewarding inland drives in Far North Queensland. All in one unforgettable day you will have an exciting stories to show and tell.
CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT:
The following items of clothing and equipment are recommended for this trip:
Comfortable walking boots/shoes (with a good tread/non-slip sole), Light-weight shirt (long sleeved for sun protection), Sports or running shoes, Shorts, T-shirts, Swimwear, Cotton or synthetic athletic socks, Light-weight sweater or sweat shirt, Sunglasses, Sunscreen and sun-blocking lip balm, Light hat wide brim or peaked cap, Camera and batteries, binoculars (optional) Personal water bottle (optional), Waterproof jacket, light-weight Warm pullover or jacket (May-Sep)