Mungumby Lodge - Laura and loop self drive itinerary
Mungumby Lodge → Lakeland → Split Rock/Laura → Lakeland return
Laura
Return via Old Laura, Horseshoe Lagoon, Battle Camp, Normanby River, Isabella Falls & Cooktown
Trip Overview
- Total distance: approx. 210 km (return)
- Driving time: 3-4 hours driving
- Allow: Full day (6-7 hours including stops)
- Vehicle: Conventional vehicle (2WD)
- Best season: Dry season (April–November) but possible all year round.
- Fuel: Lakeland & Laura
- Start: Early morning is essential for bird watching Dec-April get to Split Rock early to avoid heat.
- Safety: Mobile reception is patchy; download offline maps and inform staff of your itinerary.
This inland loop showcases the cultural heart of Cape York, combining ancient Aboriginal rock art, gold-rush and pastoral history, vast savannah landscapes and major river systems before returning to Mungumby Lodge.
Mungumby Lodge to Lakeland
Depart Mungumby Lodge
Leave just after sunrise while birdlife is most active along the Mulligan Highway lagoons after White Horse Creek & East Normanby River before West Nomanby River bridge. The lagoon is on the LHS of the highway with offer road parking available. Of you plan to have breakfast in Lakeland we recommend the Lakeland Coffee House & Store behind the pub (Turn right at the phone booth after the school).
Birds commonly seen around the lodge and early drive along the Mulligan Highway:
- Wompoo & Superb Fruit-Doves
- Eclectus Parrot
- Macleay’s Honeyeater
- Spangled Drongo
- Brolgas (in paddocks or lagoons)
- Jabaru (in lagoons or rivers)
- Grey Goshawk
- Wedge-tail Eagles
- Australian Hobby
- Jabaru (in rivers or lagoons)
- Red Shouldered Parrots
- King Fishers
- Jacana
- Magpie Geese
As you travel west, the landscape abruptly changes from wet tropical rainforest to open woodland and savannah.
Roadside wildlife:
- Agile wallabies
- Eastern Grey Kangaroo
- Bush turkeys
- Black & Whistling Kites riding morning thermals
- Bustards
- Echidna
- Filled Neck Lizards
- Wild pigs
- Emu
Lakeland
~35-40 min drive from Mungumby Lodge
Lakeland is often called the Gateway to Cape York.
Pioneering history:
- Named after gold prospector William Lakeland
- Developed during late-1800s gold exploration
- Later became a major agricultural district producing bananas, pawpaw and melons
Stop here for:
- Fuel
- Coffee, snacks and fresh fruit from roadside stalls
- Toilets
Lakeland to Split Rock Art Galleries
Drive to Quinkan Split Rock (via Laura Road)
~40–45 minutes
This drive passes through classic termite-mound country and open eucalypt woodland.
Birdlife commonly seen:
- Apostlebirds
- Pale-headed Rosellas
- Rainbow Bee-eaters
- Wedge-tailed Eagles
- Black-breasted Buzzards (occasional)
- Bustards
- Red Tailed Black Cockatoo
- Sulphur-crested Cockatoo
Split Rock Aboriginal Rock Art Galleries (Quinkan Country)
Approx. 12 km south of Laura
One of the most accessible and significant Aboriginal rock art sites in Australia. Split Rock Galleries are a few of approximately 24+ sites but only public self access site with facilities.
The Walk
- 30–45 minutes return
- Gentle climb to elevated galleries
- Handrails at steps, track poorly maintained however a clear track (branches hanging in)
- Allow at least 45-60 mins
What You’ll See
- Placards explaining figures and interpretation of some images
- Quinkan spirit figures
- Human and animal imagery
- Hand stencils and ceremonial motifs
- Art spanning thousands — possibly tens of thousands — of years
These galleries record law, ceremony, environmental change and spiritual belief, making this a living cultural landscape rather than a relic. UNESCO regards the Quinkan Rock Art as one of the ten most significant bodies of rock art in the world!
Aboriginal Tour Options (Highly Recommended)
For deeper understanding:
Quinkan Cultural Centre – Laura
- +61 7 4060 3457
- Guided rock art tours (seasonal)
- Cultural interpretation of imagery
- Storytelling and symbolism
- Insights into bush tucker and land management
A guided visit adds cultural meaning that signage alone cannot convey.
⚠️ Please respect the site
- Do not touch rock surfaces
- Stay on marked paths
- Follow photography guidelines
Laura Township
A small but historically and culturally significant outpost.
History
- Major supply centre for the 1870s Palmer River gold rush
- Former railway terminus from Cooktown
- Police camp and telegraph station were critical frontier infrastructure
Facilities
- Laura General Store
- Quinkan Hotel
- Quinkan Cultural Centre
Lunch Options
- Quinkan Hotel – classic outback pub meal
- General Store – takeaway or picnic
Return Journey – Laura to Mungumby via Lakeland
This return leg is on the same route explained earlier. This time however you can take your time and stop along the way.
Additional return stops we recommend.
- Travel down to the Laura river to view birds and possible wildlife sightings.
- Turn into the waste depo turnoff and drive down this track to view what is left of the old laura railway bridge.
- Buy a post card from the Laura Store and post it there. The shop is living history and take time to chat to the owners Jenny & Harold and learn of its history.
- On the way back stop south of the laura bridge, track the turn to the left then park your car to take a walk down to the river. In the dry season there is a Billabong usually with many birds.
- If you keep a keen eye open there are often large flocks of Red tail black Cockatoos flying between trees seeking fresh food. Additionally bustards often roam the roads sides between to road and the farm fence and if you look at the power poles smaller raptors often use these to keep a watchful eye on wildlife scurrying amongst the grass
- Stop at Steffis fruit stall just before Lakeland.
- Again check out the Billabong after the West Normandy Bridge RHS of the road this time.
Afternoon – Return to Mungumby Lodge
The final drive returns you to rainforest calm.
Evening sounds & wildlife:
- Tree frogs
- Barking Owls
- Microbats
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A fitting end to a day that spans ancient culture, frontier history and vast landscapes.
Practical Tips
- Start early and allow plenty of time
- Carry water, hat and sunscreen
- Fuel at Lakeland and Laura
- Download offline maps (take a real map)
- Respect cultural and heritage sites
Why This Trip Is Special
This journey connects:
- World-class Aboriginal rock art
- Living Indigenous culture
- Gold-rush and pastoral history
- Major wetlands and river systems
- And an easy return to Mungumby Lodge
It is one of the most authentic and rewarding inland drives in Far North Queensland. All in one unforgettable day you will have an exciting stories to show and tell.
CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT:
The following items of clothing and equipment are recommended for this trip:
Comfortable walking boots/shoes (with a good tread/non-slip sole), Light-weight shirt (long sleeved for sun protection), Sports or running shoes, Shorts, T-shirts, Cotton or synthetic athletic socks, Light-weight sweater or sweat shirt, Sunglasses, Sunscreen and sun-blocking lip balm, Light hat wide brim or peaked cap, Camera and batteries, binoculars (optional) Personal water bottle (optional), Waterproof jacket, light-weight Warm pullover or jacket (May-Sep)